Monday, December 9, 2013

November 29 - Marrakesh

Today we touched the soil of Africa for the first time in our lives.  We’ve been looking forward to this day since we booked the cruise.  It’s is going to be a great experience to discover the culture of Northern Africa as we expect it will be very different from anything we’ve been exposed to before.

We landed in Agadir Morocco.  This city of about one million residences was levelled by an earthquake in the 1960s and since it has been rebuilt it has become a very a popular European tourist destination.  Unfortunately much of the Arab culture was replaced with European friendly shops and restaurants.  So we decided instead to take a trip to the city of Marrakesh.  Marrakesh is about 150 miles northeast.

The bus took us up and over the Atlas Mountains into the sub Sahara desert.  The land is very rocky and as you would expect dry.  On the west side of the mountains the ground is red and filled with iron.  There seems to be some agriculture with the main crop being the Argane tree.  They use the nut from this tree to produce skin oil for beauty products.  As we passed one farm, the Argane tree was filled with several goats.  Apparently they are trained to climb the trees and knock the nuts from the branches.



The farm houses are flat rectangular shaped buildings with a distinct reddish colour.  It seems that barns that house the sheep and goats are attached to the houses.

The road between Agadir and Marrakesh is a modern four lane highway but it had very little traffic.
Our tour guide, Najib, was an informative and entertaining actor.  He gave us an interesting history of Morocco and how the major towns were developed based on which tribe ruled Morocco at the time.  He told us about the recent politics of Morocco and how the royal family has been progressive and liberal, so that problems that caused the Arab Spring revolutions in other Arab countries did not take root in Morocco.  He stated that the progressive nature of the Moroccan government had also encouraged foreign investment and that many European, American and Asian companies now had factories in Morocco.

He explained that women’s rights have been greatly improved in Morocco. This included advances in education, family law and the workplace.  Unfortunately, he then followed up this explanation with a series of comments and jokes that were very chauvinistic and insulting to western women. 



Marrakesh is a strange city.  It is a combination of ultra modern and very old architecture and roads.  It is human zoo wrapped around a very powerful spiritual Islamic culture.  During the tour Najib took pains to explain the Islamic religion, or as best can be done in a single day.  He explained that faithful must pray five times a day.  There are five major pillars of the faith and that the Moroccan flag has a five pointed star that equates to those beliefs. Each mosque has a pool or fountain so that the faithful can cleanse themselves before entering the mosque for prayer.   



We started the city tour by visiting the outside of the city’s main mosque.  When we arrived the imam was calling the faithful to prayer from the minaret.  We then went to a royal palace where the medieval king had four wives and 20 mistresses in the same palace.  The tile floors and archway entrances to each of the wives houses was very unique.




We then went for lunch, in the old Jewish quarter, where we were entertained with a performance of local culture that included a percussion band, singers and a belly dancer.  Usually these types of meals are insulting to both your intelligence and your palette, but this had very interesting entertainment and the food was good.  It was Moroccan chicken and Couscous with mint honey tea.  As we left a vendor with a cart of dead chickens rolled his cart pass the restaurant and we all joked that he was bring them to the restaurant for the next group of tourist.



This was followed up by a trip to an 300 year old Islamic school, where we got to see the architecture of the school and the spartan rooms where the students stayed and studied. We also visited a private school for 5 year olds where we got to see them practice their alphabet.  It was very special.

When we left we took a maze of crowed and narrow alleyways to the main city market square.  Here you could find snake charmers, whirling dervishes, Moroccan bands, fortune tellers and just about any type of street performer or con artist that you can imagine.   It is loud and colourful and everything I had expected.











As we passed a snake charmer, I took a picture of the cobra.  Of course you are expected to pay for the experience and I was immediate accosted by one of the snake charmers, who placed a live snake around my neck and offered to take my picture for good luck, and a fee of course.  I had read that these cobras have had their fangs removed and are mostly safe, so I wasn’t too freaked out. I also had a feeling that it was a fake snake, although Marg assures me it was real.  It took me three times to ask him politely to remove the snake before he did.  I think he realized that next time I was just going to take hold of the snake and toss it.



Marg was not all that impressed with old city.  She found it dirty, noisy and extremely crowded.  The narrow alleyways are shared with pedestrians and young men who go whipping down the streets on their motor scooters.   The shopping stalls are filled with junk that was described as rejects from an American flea market by one of our group.  The so called bargains we not in evidence, at least not in the shops that we saw.

We were not particularly impressed with our guide once we got into Marrakesh.   We wasted a lot of time as he took us to two shops where he said they offered the best products at the best prices.  Of course we all knew he was getting a kickback, because he kept asking us not to tell his boss that we had gone to these stores.  Also the merchandise was nothing special.   He also loved the sound of his own voice and wasted our time as he explained everything several times over.  The highlight for most people on this tour was the town market square but because of these delays we only had 30 minutes there to observe the surroundings and shop for souvenirs.   With all this wasted time, we arrived back ninety minutes late to the boat and missed our dinner seating.

As Marg was to say, we’ve seen it and we don’t need to see it again.
Later we went to the evening show in the theatre.  There we saw a British musical impressionist named Gary Thompson.  He did a very good Tom Jones and David Bowie.  His other impersonations were just average.  His comedy was hilarious though.  I thought Norman was going to have a heart attack he was laughing so hard.



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